How to Choose the Right Speargun Length

Everyone asks what length gun they need. The answer depends on where you dive and what you hunt. Here is the breakdown.

55cm: The Bridge Blaster

Tight structure. Jetties, pilings, bridges. If you are threading through concrete and rebar, this is your gun. Maneuverability matters more than range when the fish is 10 feet away behind a crossbeam. The 55 is not a compromise. It is purpose-built for close quarters.

75cm: The Jetty Javelin

A step up from the pocket gun but still structure-friendly. Good for jetties, inshore reefs, and anywhere you need to move fast through kelp or structure. This is the sweet spot for divers who split time between tight spots and open reef.

90cm: The Reef Standard

The most versatile length for East Coast reef diving. Enough barrel for accuracy at 15 to 20 feet. Enough maneuverability to work around ledges and overhangs. If you could only own one gun, this is probably it.

110cm: The Reef Rocket

When fish are holding deeper or the vis opens up past 30 feet, you want more range. The 110 gives you that reach without becoming unwieldy. Good for reef edges, deeper structure, and days when the water is actually clear.

130cm: The Whopper Stopper

Big gun for big fish. Wahoo, cobia, AJs. If you are hunting pelagics or working deep wrecks where the targets are measured in feet, not inches, this is what you bring. Not a beginner gun. Not a structure gun. This is for when you know exactly what you are after.

The Real Answer

Match the gun to the situation, not your ego. A 130 in the pilings is a liability. A 55 on a bluewater trip is a joke. Most divers end up with two or three lengths once they figure out their spots. Start with a 90 if you are unsure. Go shorter if you are in structure, longer if you are chasing pelagics.

Build quality matters more than length anyway. A mediocre 110 will lose to a well-tuned 90 every time.